Item 1. BUSINESS
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Item 1. BUSINESS
Founded in 1941, Coach, Inc., the predecessor to Tapestry, Inc. (the "Company"), was incorporated in the state of Maryland in 2000. During fiscal 2015, the Company acquired Stuart Weitzman Holdings LLC, a luxury women's footwear company. During fiscal 2018, the Company acquired Kate Spade & Company, a lifestyle accessories and ready-to-wear company. Later in fiscal 2018, the Company changed its name to Tapestry, Inc.
Tapestry, Inc. (the "Company") is a leading New York-based house of iconic accessories and lifestyle brands. Our global house of brands unites the magic of Coach, kate spade new york and Stuart Weitzman. Each of our brands are unique and independent, while sharing a commitment to innovation and authenticity defined by distinctive products and differentiated customer experiences across channels and geographies. We use our collective strengths to move our customers and empower our communities, to make the fashion industry more sustainable, and to build a company that’s equitable, inclusive, and diverse. Individually, our brands are iconic. Together, we can stretch what’s possible.
OUR STRATEGY
Building on the success of the strategic growth plan from fiscal 2020 through fiscal 2022 (the “Acceleration Program”), in the first quarter of fiscal 2023, the Company introduced the 2025 growth strategy (“futurespeed”), designed to amplify and extend the competitive advantages of its brands, with a focus on four strategic priorities:
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Building Lasting Customer Relationships: The Company aims to leverage Tapestry’s transformed business model to drive customer lifetime value through a combination of increased customer acquisition, retention and reactivation.
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Fueling Fashion Innovation & Product Excellence: The Company aims to drive sustained growth in core handbags and small leathergoods, while accelerating gains in footwear and lifestyle products.
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Delivering Compelling Omni-Channel Experiences: The Company aims to extend its omni-channel leadership to meet the customer wherever they shop, delivering growth online and in stores.
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Powering Global Growth: The Company aims to support balanced growth across regions, prioritizing North America and China, its largest markets, while capitalizing on opportunities in under-penetrated geographies such as Southeast Asia and Europe.
Covid-19 Impact
The Covid-19 pandemic has resulted in varying degrees of business disruption for the Company since it began in fiscal 2020 and has impacted all regions around the world, resulting in restrictions and shutdowns implemented by national, state, and local authorities. Such disruptions continued during the first half of fiscal 2023, and the Company's results in Greater China (mainland China, Hong Kong SAR, Macao SAR, and Taiwan) were adversely impacted as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Starting in December 2022, certain government restrictions were lifted in the region and business trends have improved. The Company continues to monitor the latest developments regarding the Covid-19 pandemic and potential impacts on our business, operating results and outlook.
OUR BRANDS
The Company has three reportable segments:
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Coach - Includes global sales primarily of Coach brand products to customers through Coach operated stores, including e-commerce sites and concession shop-in-shops, sales to wholesale customers and through independent third-party distributors. This segment represented 74.5% of total net sales in fiscal 2023.
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Kate Spade - Includes global sales primarily of kate spade new york brand products to customers through Kate Spade operated stores, including e-commerce sites and concession shop-in-shops, sales to wholesale customers and through independent third-party distributors. This segment represented 21.3% of total net sales in fiscal 2023.
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Stuart Weitzman - Includes global sales of Stuart Weitzman brand products primarily through Stuart Weitzman operated stores, sales to wholesale customers, through e-commerce sites and through independent third-party distributors. This segment represented 4.2% of total net sales in fiscal 2023.
Corporate, which is not a reportable segment, represents certain costs that are not directly attributable to a brand. These costs primarily include administrative and information systems expense.
Coach
Coach is a global fashion house of accessories and lifestyle collections, founded in New York in 1941. Inspired by the vision of Expressive Luxury and the inclusive and courageous spirit of its hometown, the brand makes beautiful things, crafted to last – for you to be yourself in. Coach has built a legacy of craft and a community that champions the courage to be real.
Stores — Coach operates freestanding retail stores, including flagships, and outlet stores as well as concession shop-in-shop locations. These stores are located in regional shopping centers, metropolitan areas throughout the world and established outlet centers.
Retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Coach operates a limited number of flagship stores that offer the fullest expression of the Coach brand and are located in tourist-heavy, densely populated cities globally. Coach outlet stores serve as an efficient means to sell manufactured-for-outlet product and discontinued retail inventory outside the retail channel. The outlet store design, visual presentations and customer service levels support and reinforce the brand's image. Through these outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Coach directly operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Coach | ||||||||||||||||||||
| North America | International | Total | ||||||||||||||||||
| Store Count | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 330 | 609 | 939 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (13) | 7 | (6) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (3.8) | % | 1.2 | % | (0.6) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 343 | 602 | 945 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (11) | 17 | 6 | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (3.1) | % | 2.9 | % | 0.6 | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 354 | 585 | 939 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (21) | 2 | (19) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (5.6) | % | 0.3 | % | (2.0) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 1,618,310 | 1,396,898 | 3,015,208 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (41,503) | 37,917 | (3,586) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (2.5) | % | 2.8 | % | (0.1) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 1,659,813 | 1,358,981 | 3,018,794 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (34,903) | 62,978 | 28,075 | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (2.1) | % | 4.9 | % | 0.9 | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 1,694,716 | 1,296,003 | 2,990,719 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (63,952) | 10,674 | (53,278) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (3.6) | % | 0.8 | % | (1.8) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Average Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 4,904 | 2,294 | 3,211 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 4,839 | 2,257 | 3,194 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 4,787 | 2,215 | 3,185 |
In fiscal 2024, we expect minimal change in overall store count with a reduction in store count primarily in Japan and North America, partially offset by an increase in store count in Greater China.
Digital — We view our digital platforms as instruments to deliver Coach products to customers directly, with the benefit of added accessibility, so that consumers can purchase Coach products wherever they choose. For Coach, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S., Canada, Japan, Greater China, several throughout Europe, Australia and several throughout the rest of Asia. Additionally, we continue to leverage various third-party digital platforms to sell our products to customers.
Wholesale — We work closely with our wholesale partners to ensure a clear and consistent product presentation. We enhance our presentation with proprietary Coach brand fixtures within the department store environment in select locations. We custom tailor our assortments through wholesale product planning and allocation processes to match the attributes of our department store consumers in each local market. We continue to closely monitor inventories held by our wholesale customers in an effort to optimize inventory levels across wholesale doors. The wholesale business for Coach comprised approximately 10% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2023. As of July 1, 2023 and July 2, 2022, Coach did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Kate Spade
Since its launch in 1993 with a collection of six essential handbags, kate spade new york has always been colorful, bold and optimistic. Today, it is a global lifestyle brand that designs extraordinary things for the everyday, delivering seasonal collections of handbags, ready-to-wear, jewelry, footwear, gifts, home décor and more. Known for its rich heritage and unique brand DNA, kate spade new york offers a distinctive point of view, and celebrates communities of women around the globe who live their perfectly imperfect lifestyles.
Stores — Kate Spade operates freestanding retail stores, including flagships, and outlet stores as well as concession shop-in-shops. These stores are located in regional shopping centers and metropolitan areas throughout the world as well as established outlet centers.
Kate Spade retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Kate Spade operates a limited number of flagship locations which offer the fullest expression of the Kate Spade brand and are located in key strategic markets including tourist-heavy, densely populated cities globally. Kate Spade outlet stores serve as an efficient means to sell manufactured-for-outlet product and discontinued retail inventory outside the retail channel. Through these outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Kate Spade directly operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Kate Spade | ||||||||||||||||||||
| North America | International | Total | ||||||||||||||||||
| Store Count | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 205 | 192 | 397 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (2) | 1 | (1) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.0) | % | 0.5 | % | (0.3) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 207 | 191 | 398 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (3) | (6) | (9) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.4) | % | (3.0) | % | (2.2) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 210 | 197 | 407 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (3) | (10) | (13) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.4) | % | (4.8) | % | (3.1) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 589,561 | 277,710 | 867,271 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (3,088) | 2,423 | (665) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (0.5) | % | 0.9 | % | (0.1) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 592,649 | 275,287 | 867,936 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (4,537) | (6,692) | (11,229) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (0.8) | % | (2.4) | % | (1.3) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 597,186 | 281,979 | 879,165 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (6,301) | (9,343) | (15,644) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.0) | % | (3.2) | % | (1.7) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Average Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 2,876 | 1,446 | 2,185 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 2,863 | 1,441 | 2,181 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021 | 2,844 | 1,431 | 2,160 |
In fiscal 2024, we expect minimal change in overall store count with an increase in store count in Greater China, partially offset by a reduction in store count in Japan and North America.
Digital — We view our digital platforms as instruments to deliver Kate Spade products to customers directly with the benefit of added accessibility as consumers can purchase Kate Spade products wherever they choose. For Kate Spade, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S., Canada, Greater China, Japan and several throughout Europe. Additionally, we continue to leverage various third-party digital platforms to sell our products to customers.
Wholesale — The wholesale business for Kate Spade comprised approximately 11% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2023. Kate Spade has developed relationships with a select group of distributors who sell Kate Spade products through travel retail locations and in certain international countries where Kate Spade does not have directly operated retail locations. As of July 1, 2023 and July 2, 2022, Kate Spade did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Stuart Weitzman
Founded in 1986, Stuart Weitzman has been inspired by women who are confident, sexy, bold – and, above all, strong. By combining its artisanal Spanish craftsmanship and precisely engineered fit, the New York City based global luxury footwear brand creates shoes that empower women to stand strong.
Stores — Stuart Weitzman products are primarily sold in retail and outlet stores. Retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Through outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Stuart Weitzman directly operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Stuart Weitzman | ||||||||||||||||||||
| North America | International | Total | ||||||||||||||||||
| Store Count | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 36 | 57 | 93 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (3) | (4) | (7) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (7.7) | % | (6.6) | % | (7.0) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 39 | 61 | 100 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (9) | 5 | (4) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (18.8) | % | 8.9 | % | (3.8) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021(1) | 48 | 56 | 104 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (10) | (17) | (27) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (17.2) | % | (23.3) | % | (20.6) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 68,592 | 78,171 | 146,763 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (6,244) | (5,899) | (12,143) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (8.3) | % | (7.0) | % | (7.6) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 74,836 | 84,070 | 158,906 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (13,558) | 3,620 | (9,938) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (15.3) | % | 4.5 | % | (5.9) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021(1) | 88,394 | 80,450 | 168,844 | |||||||||||||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (14,390) | (8,732) | (23,122) | |||||||||||||||||
| % change vs. prior year | (14.0) | % | (9.8) | % | (12.0) | % | ||||||||||||||
| Average Square Footage | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2023 | 1,905 | 1,371 | 1,578 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2022 | 1,919 | 1,378 | 1,589 | |||||||||||||||||
| Fiscal 2021(1) | 1,842 | 1,437 | 1,624 |
(1) During fiscal 2021, we exited certain regions previously operated in to optimize our fleet under the Acceleration Program.
In fiscal 2024, we expect minimal change in overall store count with a modest reduction in store count in North America and a modest increase in store count in Greater China.
Digital — We view our digital platform as an instrument to deliver Stuart Weitzman products to customers directly with the benefit of added accessibility as consumers can purchase Stuart Weitzman brand products wherever they choose. For Stuart Weitzman, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S, Canada and Greater China. Additionally, we continue to leverage a third-party digital platform to sell our products to customers.
Wholesale — The wholesale business for Stuart Weitzman comprised approximately 34% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2023. We continue to closely monitor inventories held by our wholesale customers in an effort to optimize inventory levels across wholesale doors. Stuart Weitzman has developed relationships with a select group of distributors who sell Stuart Weitzman products through travel retail locations and in certain international countries where Stuart Weitzman does not have directly operated retail locations. As of July 1, 2023 and July 2, 2022, Stuart Weitzman did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Refer to Note 17, "Segment Information," for further information about the Company's segments.
LICENSING
Our brands take an active role in the design process and control the marketing and distribution of products in our worldwide licensing relationships. Our key licensing relationships and their fiscal year expirations as of July 1, 2023 are as follows:
| Brand | Category | Partner | Fiscal Year Expiration | |||||||||||||||||
| Coach | Jewelry and Soft Accessories | Centric | 2024 | |||||||||||||||||
| Coach | Watches | Movado | 2025 | |||||||||||||||||
| Coach | Eyewear | Luxottica | 2026 | |||||||||||||||||
| Coach | Fragrance | Interparfums | 2026 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Tableware and Housewares | Lenox | 2024 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Fashion Bedding | Himatsingka | 2024 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Watches | Fossil | 2025 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Sleepwear | Komar | 2025 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Stationery and Gift | Lifeguard Press | 2026 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Fragrance | Interparfums | 2030 | |||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | Eyewear | Safilo | 2031 |
Products made under license are, in most cases, sold through stores and wholesale channels and, with the Company's approval, the licensees have the right to distribute products selectively through other venues, which provide additional, yet controlled, exposure of our brands. Our licensing partners generally pay royalties on their net sales of our branded products. Such royalties currently comprise approximately 1% of Tapestry's total net sales. The licensing agreements generally give our brands the right to terminate the license if specified sales targets are not achieved.
PRODUCTS
The following table shows net sales for each of our product categories by segment:
| Fiscal Year Ended | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| July 1, 2023 | July 2, 2022 | July 3, 2021 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| (millions) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Amount | % of total net sales | Amount | % of total net sales | Amount | % of total net sales | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Coach | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Handbags | $ | 2,450.7 | 36.8 | % | $ | 2,574.8 | 38.5 | % | $ | 2,302.3 | 40.1% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Accessories | 1,024.8 | 15.4 | 942.5 | 14.1 | 776.7 | 13.5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Men's | 947.1 | 14.2 | 904.8 | 13.5 | 769.3 | 13.4 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other Products | 537.8 | 8.1 | 499.2 | 7.5 | 404.8 | 7.0 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total Coach | $ | 4,960.4 | 74.5 | % | $ | 4,921.3 | 73.6 | % | $ | 4,253.1 | 74.0% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Kate Spade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Handbags | $ | 779.6 | 11.7 | % | $ | 819.5 | 12.2 | % | $ | 681.5 | 11.9% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other Products | 332.4 | 5.0 | 319.0 | 4.8 | 269.3 | 4.7 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Accessories | 306.9 | 4.6 | 307.0 | 4.6 | 259.2 | 4.5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total Kate Spade | $ | 1,418.9 | 21.3 | % | $ | 1,445.5 | 21.6 | % | $ | 1,210.0 | 21.1% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Stuart Weitzman(1) | $ | 281.6 | 4.2 | % | $ | 317.7 | 4.8 | % | $ | 283.2 | 4.9% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total Net sales | $ | 6,660.9 | 100.0 | % | $ | 6,684.5 | 100.0 | % | $ | 5,746.3 | 100.0% |
(1)The significant majority of sales for Stuart Weitzman is attributable to women's footwear.
Women’s Handbags — Women’s handbag collections feature classically inspired as well as fashion designs. These collections are designed to meet the fashion and functional requirements of our broad and diverse consumer base.
Women’s Accessories — Women’s accessories include small leather goods which includes mini and micro handbags, money pieces, wristlets, pouches and cosmetic cases. Also included in this category are novelty accessories (including address books, time management accessories, travel accessories, sketchbooks and portfolios), belts, key rings and charms.
Men’s — Men’s includes bag collections (including business cases, computer bags, messenger-style bags, backpacks and totes), small leather goods (including wallets, card cases, travel organizers and belts), footwear, watches, fragrances, sunglasses, novelty accessories and ready-to-wear items.
Other Products — These products primarily include women's footwear, eyewear (such as sunglasses), jewelry (including bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings), women's fragrances, watches, certain women's seasonal lifestyle apparel collections, including outerwear, ready-to-wear and cold weather accessories, such as gloves, scarves and hats. In addition, Kate Spade brand kids items, housewares and home accessories, such as fashion bedding and tableware, and stationery and gifts are included in this category.
DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING
Our creative leaders are responsible for conceptualizing and implementing the design direction for our brands across the consumer touchpoints of product, stores and marketing. At Tapestry, each brand has a dedicated design and merchandising team; this ensures that Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman speak to their customers with a voice and positioning unique to their brand. Designers have access to the brands' extensive archives of product designs, which are a valuable resource for new product concepts. Our designers collaborate with strong merchandising teams that analyze sales, market trends and consumer preferences to identify market opportunities that help guide each season's design process and create a globally relevant product assortment. Leveraging our strategic investments in data and analytics tools across Tapestry's platform, merchandisers are able to gain a deeper understanding of customer behavior that empowers our teams to respond to changes in consumer preferences and demand as well as scale opportunities across brands with greater speed and efficiency. Our merchandising teams are committed to managing the product life cycle to maximize sales and profitability across all channels. The product category teams, each comprised of design, merchandising, product development and sourcing specialists help each brand execute design concepts that are consistent with the brand's strategic direction.
Our design and merchandising teams also work in close collaboration with all of our licensing partners to ensure that the licensed products are conceptualized and designed to address the intended market opportunity and convey the distinctive perspective and lifestyle associated with our brands.
MARKETING
We use a 360-degree approach to marketing for each of our brands, synchronizing our efforts across all channels to ensure consistency at every touchpoint. Our global marketing strategy is to deliver a consistent, relevant and multi-layered message every time the consumer comes in contact with our brands through our communications and visual merchandising. Each brand's distinctive positioning is communicated by our creative marketing, visual merchandising and public relations teams, as well as outside creative agencies. We also have a sophisticated consumer and market research capability, which helps us assess consumer attitudes and trends.
We engage in several consumer communication initiatives globally, including direct marketing activities at a national, regional and local level. Total expenses attributable to the Company's marketing-related activities in fiscal 2023 were $570.7 million, or approximately 9% of net sales, compared to $551.6 million in fiscal 2022, or approximately 8% of net sales.
Our wide range of marketing activities utilize a variety of media, including digital, social, print and out-of-home. Our respective brand websites serve as effective communication vehicles by providing an immersive brand experience, showcasing the fullest expression across all product categories.
As part of our direct marketing strategy, we use databases of consumers to generate personalized communications in direct channels such as email and text messages to drive engagement and build awareness. Email contacts are an important part of our communication and are sent to selected consumers to stimulate consumer purchases and build brand awareness. Visitors to our e-commerce sites provide an opportunity to increase the size of these consumer databases, in addition to serving as a point of transactions globally, except where restricted.
The Company has several regional informational websites for locations where we have not established an e-commerce presence. The Company utilizes and continues to explore digital technologies such as social media websites as a cost effective consumer communication opportunity to increase on-line and store sales, acquire new customers and build brand awareness.
MANUFACTURING
Tapestry carefully balances its commitments to a limited number of “better brand” partners that have demonstrated integrity, quality and reliable delivery. The Company continues to evaluate new manufacturing sources and geographies to deliver high quality products at competitive costs and to mitigate the impact of manufacturing in inflationary markets.
Our raw material suppliers, independent manufacturers and licensing partners must achieve and maintain high quality standards, which are an integral part of our brands' identity. Before directly partnering with a new manufacturing vendor for finished goods, the Company evaluates each facility by conducting a quality, business practice standards and social compliance review. We expect finished good manufacturers to undergo a social compliance audit before being approved as a Tapestry supplier. Manufacturers working with our licensed partners must have had an acceptable social compliance audit conducted within the prior six months of their onboarding date. Suppliers that fail to meet our standards are not approved until an acceptable report is provided. We also conduct periodic evaluations of existing, previously approved finished good suppliers. We believe that our manufacturing partners are in material compliance with the Company’s integrity standards.
These independent manufacturers each or in aggregate support a broad mix of product types, materials and a seasonal influx of new, fashion-oriented styles, which allows us to meet shifts in marketplace demand and changes in consumer preferences.
We have longstanding relationships with purveyors of fine leathers and hardware. Although our products are manufactured by independent manufacturers, we maintain a strong level of oversight in the selection of key raw materials and compliance with quality control standards is monitored through on-site quality inspections at independent manufacturing facilities.
We maintain strong oversight of the supply chain process for each of our brands from design through manufacturing. We are able to do this by maintaining sourcing management offices in Vietnam, mainland China, the Philippines, Cambodia and Spain that work closely with our independent manufacturers. This broad-based, global manufacturing strategy is designed to optimize the mix of cost, lead times and construction capabilities.
During fiscal 2023, manufacturers of Coach products were primarily located in Vietnam, Cambodia, and the Philippines and no individual vendor provided 10% or more of the brand's total purchases. During fiscal 2023, Kate Spade products were manufactured primarily in Vietnam, Cambodia, the Philippines and mainland China. Kate Spade had one vendor, located in Vietnam, who individually provided approximately 10% of the brand's total purchases. Stuart Weitzman products were primarily manufactured in Spain. During fiscal 2023, Stuart Weitzman had three vendors, all located in Spain, who individually provided over 10% of the brand's total units (approximately 37% across the three, in the aggregate).
FULFILLMENT
The Company’s distribution network is designed to support the movement of each brand's products from our manufacturers to fulfillment centers around the world. These fulfillment centers are either directly operated by the Company or by independent third parties, with some supporting multiple brands. Our facilities use bar code scanning warehouse management systems, where our fulfillment center employees use handheld scanners to read product bar codes. This allows for accurate storage and order processing and allows us to provide excellent service to our customers. These facilities are also integrated into our Enterprise Resource Planning ("ERP") system, ensuring accurate inventory reporting. Our products are primarily shipped to retail stores, wholesale customers and e-commerce customers.
In North America we maintain fulfillment centers in Jacksonville, Florida, and West Chester, Ohio, operated by Tapestry. In addition, in fiscal 2023, the Company opened a new multi-brand fulfillment center located in Las Vegas, Nevada that increase capacity and continue to enhance fulfillment capabilities in North America. The Company also has two third-party facilities in Toronto, Canada and Tijuana, Mexico. Globally, we utilize regional fulfillment centers in mainland China, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, and Spain, owned and operated by third parties, that support multiple countries. We also utilize local fulfillment centers, through third-parties in Japan, parts of Greater China, South Korea, Singapore, Malaysia, Spain, the U.K., Canada, and Australia.
INFORMATION SYSTEMS
The Company’s information systems are integral in supporting the Company’s long-term strategies. Our information technology platform is a key capability used to support digital growth and drive consumer centricity and data-driven decision making. We are continually enhancing our digital technology platforms to elevate our e-commerce capabilities direct-to-consumer functionalities, and overall omni-channel experience, by utilizing cloud-based technology infrastructure. For example, we will continue to enhance certain of our machine learning models to improve our customer capture and segmentation capabilities.
In fiscal 2021, the Company began implementing a cloud-based digital platform to enhance our omnichannel capabilities, across all brands in North America, Europe and Japan. This shared enterprise digital strategy affords the Company more productive and efficient capabilities for digital and in-store selling and engagement. This implementation was substantially completed in fiscal 2023.
The Company maintains global information security and privacy compliance programs, comprised of risk management policies and procedures surrounding the Company’s information systems, cybersecurity practices and protection of consumer and employee personal data and confidential information. The Board of Directors (the "Board") has ultimate oversight of the Company’s risk management policies and procedures, and has delegated primary responsibility for monitoring the risks and programs in this area to the Audit Committee, which receives quarterly updates on information security and privacy risk and compliance. The Board receives periodic updates on these topics as well. As part of the Company’s compliance programs, all global employees are required to take annual training on information security, including cybersecurity, and global data privacy requirements and compliance measures. We also conduct periodic internal and third-party assessments to test our cybersecurity controls, perform cyber simulations and annual tabletop exercises, and continually evaluate our privacy notices, policies and procedures surrounding our handling and control of personal data and the systems we have in place to help protect us from cybersecurity or personal data breaches. Additionally, we maintain network security and cyber liability insurance in order to provide a level of financial protection in the event of certain covered cyber losses and data breaches.
INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY
Tapestry owns COACH, KATE SPADE and STUART WEITZMAN, as well as all of the material trademark, design and patent-rights related to the production, marketing, distribution and sale of our products in the United States and other countries in which our products are principally sold. In addition, it licenses trademarks and copyrights used in connection with the production, marketing and distribution of certain categories of goods and limited edition collaborations. Tapestry also owns and maintains registrations in countries around the world for trademarks in relevant classes of products. Major trademarks include TAPESTRY, COACH, STUART WEITZMAN, KATE SPADE and KATE SPADE NEW YORK. It also owns brand-specific trademarks such as COACH and Horse & Carriage Design, COACH and Story Patch Design, COACH and Lozenge Design, COACH and Tag Design, Signature C Design and COACHTOPIA for the COACH brand; kate spade new york and Spade Design, and spade flower monogram for the kate spade new york brand; and NUDIST and 5050 for the Stuart Weitzman brand. Tapestry is not dependent on any one particular trademark or design patent although Tapestry believes that the Coach, Stuart Weitzman and Kate Spade New York trademarks are important for its business. In addition, Tapestry owns a number of copyrights, design patents and utility patents for its brands' product designs. Tapestry aggressively polices its intellectual property, and pursues infringers both domestically and internationally. It pursues counterfeiters through leads generated internally, as well as through its network of investigators, law enforcement and customs officials, the respective online reporting form for each brand, the Tapestry hotline and business partners around the world.
SEASONALITY
The Company's results are typically affected by seasonal trends. During the first fiscal quarter, we typically build inventory for the winter and holiday season. In the second fiscal quarter, working capital requirements are reduced substantially as we generate higher net sales and operating income, especially during the holiday season.
Fluctuations in net sales, operating income and operating cash flows of the Company in any fiscal quarter may be affected by the timing of wholesale shipments and other events affecting retail sales, including weather and macroeconomic events, and pandemics such as Covid-19.
GOVERNMENT REGULATION
Most of the Company's imported products are subject to duties, indirect taxes, quotas and non-tariff trade barriers that may limit the quantity of products that we may import into the U.S. and other countries or may impact the cost of such products. The Company is not materially restricted by quotas or other government restrictions in the operation of its business, however customs duties do represent a component of total product cost. To maximize opportunities, the Company operates complex supply chains through foreign trade zones, bonded logistic parks and other strategic initiatives such as free trade agreements. For example, we have historically received benefits from duty-free imports on certain products from certain countries pursuant to the U.S. General System of Preferences ("GSP") program. The GSP program expired in the third quarter of fiscal 2021, resulting in additional duties that have negatively impacted gross margin. Additionally, the Company operates a direct import business in many countries worldwide. As a result, the Company is subject to stringent government regulations and restrictions with respect to its cross-border activity either by the various customs and border protection agencies or by other government agencies which control the quality and safety of the Company’s products. The Company maintains an internal global trade, customs and product compliance organization to help manage its import/export and regulatory affairs activity.
COMPETITION
The product categories in which we operate are highly competitive. The Company competes primarily with European and American luxury and accessible luxury brands as well as private label retailers. In varying degrees, depending on the product category involved, we compete on the basis of style, price, customer service, quality, brand prestige and recognition, among others. Over the last decade, these luxury and accessible luxury brands have grown and are expected to continue to grow, encouraging the entry of new competitors as well as increasing the competition from existing competitors. This increased competition drives interest in these brand loyal categories. We believe, however, that we have significant competitive advantages because of the recognition of our brands and the acceptance of our brands by consumers.
CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY
As a people-centered and purpose led Company, Tapestry believes that a better-made future is one that is both beautiful and responsible. Our Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (“ESG”) strategy, the Fabric of Change, aims to unite teams across the Company’s business to work to meet our Corporate Responsibility Goals ("ESG Goals") and a shared objective: to create the accessible luxury company of the future that balances true fashion authority with meaningful, positive change. The Fabric of Change focuses on three pillars: Our People, Our Planet and Our Communities.
- Our People:
◦We aim to foster inclusivity and diversity through four interconnected principles: talent, culture, community, and marketplace. Our equity, inclusion and diversity ("EI&D") goals focus on attracting and retaining talent and building a compelling and fulfilling employee experience.
◦We have set goals focused on building diversity in our leadership team, reducing differences in our employee survey results based on gender and ethnicity, focusing on progression and establishing core wellness standards to enable our employees to manage their work and personal lives.
◦We tie 10% of leadership annual incentive compensation to EI&D goals on a global basis level.
- Our Planet:
◦We aim to sustain and restore our planet through continuous innovation in solutions that improve biodiversity and reduce our impact on climate change with a focus on renewable energy, increased use of environmentally preferred materials and production methods, and circular business models that design out waste and pollution, keep products in use, and restore natural systems.
◦We have set ESG goals focused on utilizing 100% renewable energy in our own operations; tracing and mapping our raw materials, environmentally responsible sourcing of leather, increasing the recycled content of our packaging, reducing waste in our corporate and distribution centers and water across our company and supply chain. We have also set new science-based emissions reduction targets in line with Science Based Targets initiative ("SBTi's") criteria and 1.5⁰C.
- Our Communities:
◦We aim to support and empower the communities where our employees live and work, and provide the resources and investment needed to strengthen the regions where we operate, through volunteer efforts, philanthropic initiatives, product donations, and social impact programming.
◦We have set goals focused on volunteerism programs, philanthropic initiatives and supply chain empowerment programs.
The Company’s ESG and Corporate Responsibility Strategy, including oversight, management and identification of risks, is ultimately governed by the Board of Directors and overseen by an ESG Steering Committee, which is comprised of members of our executive leadership team, and driven by an ESG Task Force, which is comprised of senior leaders and cross-functional members from major business functions. The Board approves long-term sustainability goals, strategic moves or major plans of action and receives updates at least annually. Tapestry's Governance and Nominations Committee of the Board receives quarterly updates on sustainability strategy, including climate-related topics, progress towards the ESG goals and other ESG related initiatives.
Additional information on the Fabric of Change and Corporate Responsibility Goals can be found at www.tapestry.com/responsibility. The content on this website and the content in our Corporate Responsibility Reports are not incorporated by reference into this Annual Report on Form 10-K or in any other report or document we file with the SEC.
HUMAN CAPITAL
At Tapestry, being true to yourself is core to who we are. When each of us brings our individuality to our collective ambition, our creativity is unleashed. This global house of brands was built by unconventional entrepreneurs and unexpected solutions, so when we say we believe in dreams, we mean we believe in making them happen.
Where differences intersect, new thinking emerges. So we cultivate a place for people who are both warm and rigorous, work that is both challenging and fun, a culture led by both head and heart. Most of all, we bring together the unique spirits of our people and our brands and give them a place to move their work and our industry forward. We believe that difference sparks brilliance, so we welcome people and ideas from everywhere to join us in stretching what’s possible.
Governance and Oversight
Our Board of Directors and its committees provide governance and oversight of the Company's strategy, including over issues of human capital management. The Board has designated the Human Resources Committee of the Board of Directors (the “HR Committee”) as the primary committee responsible for the Company’s human capital strategy, overseeing executive compensation programs, performance and talent development, succession planning, engagement and regular review of employee benefits and well-being strategies. Together with the Board, the HR Committee also provides oversight of the Company’s EI&D strategies. The full Board of Directors and the HR Committee receive at least quarterly updates on the Company’s talent development strategies and other applicable areas of human capital management.
Unlocking the power of our people is a key strategic focus area for the Company, supported by significant engagement from the Company’s senior leadership on talent development and human capital management, as reflected in the key programs and focus areas described below.
Employees
As of July 1, 2023, the Company employed approximately 18,500 employees globally. Of these employees, approximately 14,700 employees worked in retail locations, of which 5,900 were part-time employees. This total excludes seasonal and temporary employees that the Company employs, particularly during the second quarter due to the holiday season. The Company believes that its relations with its employees are good, and has never encountered a strike or work stoppage.
Equity, Inclusion and Diversity
Our company name Tapestry, represents the diversity of our brands and the diversity of our people. We know that having a diverse range of perspectives, backgrounds and experiences makes us more innovative and successful and it brings us closer to our consumer. Our goal is to create a culture that is equitable, inclusive and diverse - where all of our employees, customers and stakeholders thrive.
Our EI&D strategy is grounded in our purpose and values and is a core element to unlocking the power of our people. To support these actions, we are guided by four interconnected principles:
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Talent:** Attracting, retaining and growing top talent - making us an employer of choice in a rapidly evolving talent marketplace.
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Culture:** Fostering a culture of inclusion, where people and ideas from everywhere are welcomed.
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Community:** Nurturing the vibrancy of the communities in which we live and work to advance equity, opportunity and dignity for all.
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Marketplace:** Embracing our responsibility in the marketplace as a global fashion company. We are committed to affecting positive change for our industry and deliver on our value proposition to stakeholders - consumers, investors and future talent.
Our global EI&D Champion Network supports and engages our professional community by creating an environment where all are welcomed. This network includes our five employee business resource groups (“EBRGs”), two task forces and regional inclusion councils to support and engage our employees.
Additionally, we believe educating our employees is crucial in achieving our EI&D goals. We have established a global multi-year EI&D learning road map, including bespoke skill-building programs to accommodate our dynamic employee population. Furthermore, the Company has focused on providing employees with resources to foster continuing education and conversation on EI&D through 'Tapestry UNSCRIPTED', which is an internal speaker series for our employees designed to bring our values to life. We feel hosting bold conversations about our values provides an opportunity for us to be inspired, discover ideas, and ignite personal passions.
Tapestry is committed to the support of historically underrepresented and marginalized groups through our corporate efforts. We are a member of the CEO Action for Diversity and Inclusion, the largest business coalition committed to advancing Diversity and Inclusion. Our focus on fostering an equitable work environment has led to continued recognition from Forbes on the list of “Best Employers for Diversity” and Human Rights Campaign’s list of “Best Place to Work for LGBTQ Equality”. In 2023, we were recognized by Civic 50 as one of the 50 Most Community-Minded Companies. Additionally, we have been certified as a "Great Place to Work" for 2023. The Company is dedicated to building a workforce with leadership teams better reflecting our general corporate population in North America. The Company monitors the representation of women and ethnic minorities at different levels throughout the company, and discloses this information in our website at www.tapestry.com/responsibility/our-people.
Total Rewards
Tapestry is dedicated to being a place where our employees love to work, where they feel recognized and rewarded for all that they do. Maintaining a competitive program helps us attract, motivate and retain the key talent we need to achieve outstanding business and financial results. To accomplish this goal, we strive to appropriately align our total compensation with the pay, benefits and rewards offered by companies that compete with us for talent in the marketplace.
Our Total Compensation Program includes cash pay, annual and long term incentives, benefits and other special programs that our employees value. We strive to pay each employee fairly and competitively across our brands. Tapestry's primary compensation principle is to "pay for performance." Tapestry's practice is to pay a competitive base salary and to provide corporate employees with the opportunity to earn an annual bonus tied to Tapestry's and its brands' financial performance, and store employees with the opportunity to earn sales incentives. Approximately 2,500 of our employees, including nearly all of our store managers, received an annual long-term equity award in 2023, which align employee interests with those of our stockholders, rewards employees for enhancing stock holder value and supports retention of key employees.
Our benefits package is designed to be competitive and comprehensive, which varies by location and jurisdiction. Our benefits, along with competitive pay, includes medical benefits and paid wellness days and parental leave, in accordance with local policies and regulations, for directly hired full-time and part-time employees. The Company also offers retirement benefits for its employees, which are managed in accordance with local jurisdictions. To support employees in achieving their career and financial goals, the Company also provides access to learning opportunities on personal finances as well as physical and mental wellness through various platforms based on the location of the employee.
Talent Acquisition and Development
Hiring talented employees is critically important to us, as we consider our employees around the world to be our greatest asset. Our recruitment and sourcing strategy focuses on tapping diverse sources to attract the best talent to our organization and then retaining them through our continued investments in resources that provide our employees with the tools for career advancement. Our internal opportunity program encourages employees to stretch themselves in their career development, aligning their capabilities with career interests and goals. We strive to provide a working environment where our people can grow and progress their careers within the Company.
We are committed to helping our employees develop the knowledge, skills and abilities needed for continued success, and encourage employee development at all levels and every career stage. Our development programs enable individual and team success through targeted initiatives and resources, offering a wide-ranging curriculum focused on professional and leadership development for leaders, managers, and individual contributors, including through our Common Thread people management program, Emerging Leaders High-Potential Program, Leader Transition Acceleration Program, and third-party learning platforms in addition to other trainings and education facilitated through the Company for all employees.
As a company, performance management is critical to our ability to reach our goals and foster a culture of success. By having a dynamic, performance-driven culture, we can achieve greater results, maximize employee, manager and team performance and offer exciting development and career opportunities. As our focus extends beyond the performance of our employees to the performance of our Company as a whole, we have mechanisms in place to facilitate comprehensive upward feedback through robust cross-functional feedback tools and a cadence of regular pulse surveys that inform on how we can continue to strive for excellence in our work culture.
Well-being and Safety
At Tapestry, we are committed to providing a safe working environment for our people, as well as supporting our people in achieving and maintaining their health and well-being goals. Work-life integration is top of mind, and we provide resources and benefits to help achieve this balance. We provide our employees with supplemental resources to achieve wellness such as access to our Employee Assistance Program, regular employee programming and subscriptions to Headspace, a smartphone application dedicated to meditation and mindfulness. The Company announced the establishment of an Associate Relief Fund, beginning in fiscal year 2024, which will provide emergency assistance for events considered a disaster or hardship.
At Tapestry, we believe in encouraging and empowering our employees to take part in building a welcoming and inclusive community. We provide all employees with supplemental time-off to perform community service through nonprofits of their personal choice and through team and Company sponsored volunteering events. In our commitment to supporting our communities, we have three foundations which provide monetary support to nonprofit organizations across communities that we are a part of. Additionally, on an annual basis, our foundations match up to $10,000 in donations to eligible non-profits per employee in North America.
FINANCIAL INFORMATION ABOUT GEOGRAPHIC AREAS
Refer to Note 4, "Revenue," and Note 17, "Segment Information," presented in the Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements for geographic information.
AVAILABLE INFORMATION
Our Annual Reports on Form 10-K, Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, Current Reports on Form 8-K and all amendments to these reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 are available free of charge on our investor website, located at www.tapestry.com/investors under the caption “SEC Filings,” as soon as reasonably practicable after they are filed with or furnished to the Securities and Exchange Commission. These reports are also available on the Securities and Exchange Commission’s website at www.sec.gov. No information contained on any of our websites is intended to be included as part of, or incorporated by reference into, this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
The Company has included the Chief Executive Officer (“CEO”) and Chief Financial Officer certifications regarding its public disclosure required by Section 302 of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act of 2002 as Exhibits 31.1 and 31.2, respectively to this Form 10-K.
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