Item 1. BUSINESS
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Item 1. BUSINESS
Tapestry, Inc. (the "Company") is a leading New York-based house of modern luxury accessories and lifestyle brands. Tapestry is powered by optimism, innovation and inclusivity. Our brands convey our belief that true luxury is a freedom of expression that ignites confidence and authenticity. Our brands are approachable and inviting and create joy every day for people around the world. Defined by quality, craftsmanship and creativity, the brands that make up our house give global audiences the opportunity for exploration and self-expression. Tapestry is comprised of the Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman brands, all of which have been part of the American fashion landscape for over 25 years.
GENERAL DEVELOPMENT OF BUSINESS
Founded in 1941, Coach, Inc., the predecessor company to Tapestry, Inc., was acquired by Sara Lee Corporation (“Sara Lee”) in 1985. In June 2000, Coach, Inc. was incorporated in the state of Maryland. In October 2000, Coach, Inc. was listed on the New York Stock Exchange and sold approximately 19.5% of the then outstanding shares. In April 2001, Sara Lee completed a distribution of its remaining ownership in Coach, Inc. via an exchange offer, which allowed Sara Lee stockholders to tender Sara Lee common stock for Coach, Inc. common stock. During fiscal 2015, the Company acquired Stuart Weitzman Holdings LLC, a luxury women's footwear company. During the first quarter of fiscal 2018, the Company acquired Kate Spade & Company, a lifestyle accessories and ready-to-wear company.
During fiscal 2018, the Company changed its name to Tapestry, Inc., a leading luxury lifestyle company with a diverse multi-brand portfolio supported by significant expertise in handbag design, merchandising, supply chain and retail operations as well as solid financial acumen.
The Company's international expansion strategy has been to enter into joint ventures and establish distributor relationships to build market presence and capability. To further accelerate brand awareness, aggressively grow market share and to exercise greater control of our brands, the Company has historically acquired its joint venture partner’s interests or distribution rights in these international regions.
OUR BRANDS
The Company has three reportable segments:
| • | Coach includes global sales of Coach products to customers through Coach operated stores, including the Internet and concession shop-in-shops, and sales to wholesale customers and through independent third party distributors. This segment represented 71.1% of total net sales in fiscal 2020. |
| • | Kate Spade includes global sales primarily of kate spade new york brand products to customers through Kate Spade operated stores, including the Internet, sales to wholesale customers, through concession shop-in-shops and through independent third party distributors. This segment represented 23.2% of total net sales in fiscal 2020. |
| • | Stuart Weitzman includes global sales of Stuart Weitzman brand products primarily through Stuart Weitzman operated stores, including the Internet, sales to wholesale customers and through independent third party distributors. This segment represented 5.7% of total net sales in fiscal 2020. |
Corporate, which is not a reportable segment, represents certain costs that are not directly attributable to a brand. These costs primarily include administrative and information systems expense.
Acceleration Program
The Company is undergoing a review of its business under its multi-year growth agenda (the "Acceleration Program"). The guiding principle of the Company’s multi-year growth agenda is to better meet the needs of each of its brands' unique customers by:
| • | Sharpening our Focus on the Consumer: Operating with a clearly defined purpose and strategy for each brand and an unwavering focus on the consumer at the core of everything we do |
| • | Leveraging Data and Leading with a Digital-First Mindset: Building significant data and analytics capabilities to drive decision-making and increase efficiency; Offering immersive customer experiences across our e-commerce and |
social channels to meet the needs of consumers who are increasingly utilizing digital platforms to engage with brands; Rethinking the role of stores with an intent to optimize our fleet
| • | Transforming into a Leaner and More Responsive Organization: Moving with greater agility, simplifying internal processes and empowering teams to act quickly to meet the rapidly changing needs of the consumer |
This multi-faceted, multi-year strategic growth plan reflects: (i) actions to streamline the Company's organization; (ii) select store closures as the Company optimizes its fleet (including store closure costs incurred as the Company exits certain regions in which it currently operates); and (iii) professional fees and compensation costs incurred as a result of the development and execution of the Company's comprehensive strategic initiatives aimed at increasing profitability. The Company incurred $87.0 million under the plan for fiscal 2020. Including charges taken in the fourth quarter of fiscal year 2020, the Company expects to incur total pre-tax charges under the plan of $185 - $200 million. The Company estimates that it will realize approximately $300 million in gross run rate expense savings from these initiatives, including $200 million projected for fiscal 2021.
Covid-19 Impact
Tapestry began fiscal 2020 with a focus on profitable growth through innovation, global expansion, investing in digital capabilities, and harnessing the power of a multi-brand model. However, in December 2019, a novel strain of coronavirus ("Covid-19") surfaced and was officially declared a global pandemic by the World Health Organization on March 11, 2020. The virus has had significant impacts on our business globally. As a result, while the Company remains confident in its long-term strategy and executing against its multi-year growth agenda, its short-term focus includes adapting to the challenges resulting from Covid-19.
Coach
Coach is a leading design house of modern luxury accessories and lifestyle collections, with a long-standing reputation built on quality craftsmanship. As a pioneer in the leather goods and accessories space, the brand established itself as the original American house of leather. Coach remains inspired by its rich heritage, with the spirit of innovation it has had for more than 75 years. Defined by a free-spirited, all-American attitude, the brand approaches design with a modern vision, reimagining luxury for today with an authenticity that is uniquely Coach. All over the world, the Coach name is synonymous with effortless New York style. We present a sophisticated, modern and inviting environment, both in bricks & mortar stores and online, to showcase our product assortment and reinforce a consistent brand positioning.
Stores — Coach operates freestanding flagship, retail and outlet stores as well as concession shop-in-shop locations. These stores are located in regional shopping centers, metropolitan areas throughout the world and established outlet centers.
Coach flagship stores, which offer the fullest expression of the Coach brand, are located in tourist-heavy, densely populated cities globally. Retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Coach outlet stores serve as an efficient means to sell manufactured-for-outlet product and discontinued retail inventory outside the retail channel. The outlet store design, visual presentations and customer service levels support and reinforce the brand's image. Through these outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Coach directly-operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Coach | |||||||||
| North America | International**(1)** | Total | |||||||
| Store Count | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 375 | 583 | 958 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (16 | ) | (12 | ) | (28 | ) | |||
| % change vs. prior year | (4.1 | )% | (2.0 | )% | (2.8 | )% | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 391 | 595 | 986 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (11 | ) | 10 | (1 | ) | ||||
| % change vs. prior year | (2.7 | )% | 1.7 | % | (0.1 | )% | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 402 | 585 | 987 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (17 | ) | 42 | 25 | |||||
| % change vs. prior year | (4.1 | )% | 7.7 | % | 2.6 | % | |||
| Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 1,758,668 | 1,285,329 | 3,043,997 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (43,742 | ) | (19,289 | ) | (63,031 | ) | |||
| % change vs. prior year | (2.4 | )% | (1.5 | )% | (2.0 | )% | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 1,802,410 | 1,304,618 | 3,107,028 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (33,133 | ) | 48,093 | 14,960 | |||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.8 | )% | 3.8 | % | 0.5 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 1,835,543 | 1,256,525 | 3,092,068 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (48,661 | ) | 89,605 | 40,944 | |||||
| % change vs. prior year | (2.6 | )% | 7.7 | % | 1.3 | % | |||
| Average Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 4,690 | 2,205 | 3,177 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2019 | 4,610 | 2,193 | 3,151 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2018 | 4,566 | 2,148 | 3,133 |
| (1) | Fiscal 2018 includes the addition of 21 stores acquired as a result of the Coach distributor acquisition in Australia and New Zealand completed during the third quarter of fiscal 2018. |
In fiscal 2021, we expect a modest reduction in overall store count as the Company looks to drive increased profitability under the Acceleration Program and shifts our focus with greater emphasis on digital channels.
Internet — We view our digital platforms as instruments to deliver Coach brand products to customers directly, with the benefit of added accessibility, so that consumers can purchase Coach brand products wherever they choose. Consumers also have the ability to place e-commerce orders through point-of-sale mobile devices located within our retail stores. Our digital channel provides a showcase environment where consumers can browse through a selected offering of the latest styles and colors.
Wholesale — We work closely with our wholesale partners to ensure a clear and consistent product presentation. We enhance our presentation through the creation of shop-in-shops with proprietary Coach brand fixtures within the department store environment. We custom tailor our assortments through wholesale product planning and allocation processes to match the attributes of our department store consumers in each local market. We continue to closely manage inventories in this channel given the current highly promotional environment at point-of-sale. We utilize automatic replenishment with major accounts in an effort to optimize inventory levels across wholesale doors. The wholesale business for Coach brand comprised approximately 6% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2020. As of June 27, 2020, Coach's products are sold in over approximately 1,700 wholesale and distributor locations globally. Coach has developed relationships with a select group of distributors who sell Coach products through travel retail locations and in certain international countries where Coach does not have directly operated retail locations. As of June 27, 2020 and June 29, 2019, Coach did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Kate Spade
Since its launch in 1993 with a collection of six essential handbags, Kate Spade has always stood for optimistic femininity. Today, the brand is a global life and style house with handbags, ready-to-wear, jewelry, footwear, gifts, home décor and more. Polished ease, thoughtful details and a modern, sophisticated use of color—Kate Spade’s founding principles define a unique style synonymous with joy. The brand continues to celebrate confident women with a youthful spirit.
Stores — Kate Spade operates freestanding flagship, specialty retail and outlet stores as well as concession shop-in-shops. These stores are located in regional shopping centers, metropolitan areas throughout the world and established outlet centers.
Kate Spade flagship locations, which offer the fullest expression of the Kate Spade brand, are located in key strategic markets including tourist-heavy, densely populated cities globally. Retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Kate Spade outlet stores serve as an efficient means to sell manufactured-for-outlet product and discontinued retail inventory outside the retail channel. Through these outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Kate Spade directly-operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Kate Spade**(1)** | |||||||||
| North America | International**(2)** | Total | |||||||
| Store Count | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 213 | 207 | 420 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | — | 13 | 13 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | — | % | 7 | % | 3 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 213 | 194 | 407 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | 13 | 52 | 65 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | 6.5 | % | 36.6 | % | 19.0 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 200 | 142 | 342 | ||||||
| Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 603,487 | 291,322 | 894,809 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | 24,838 | 23,973 | 48,811 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | 4 | % | 9 | % | 6 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 578,649 | 267,349 | 845,998 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | 83,528 | 95,595 | 179,123 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | 16.9 | % | 55.7 | % | 26.9 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 495,121 | 171,754 | 666,875 | ||||||
| Average Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 2,833 | 1,407 | 2,130 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2019 | 2,717 | 1,378 | 2,079 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2018 | 2,476 | 1,210 | 1,950 |
| (1) | The Kate Spade business was acquired in the first quarter of fiscal 2018 which included the addition of 180 stores in North America and 95 international stores. |
| (2) | Fiscal 2019 includes the addition of 21 stores acquired as a result of the Kate Spade distributor acquisitions in Australia, Malaysia and Singapore during fiscal 2019. Fiscal 2018 includes the addition of 50 stores related to taking operational control of the Kate Spade Joint Ventures that operate in Greater China. |
We expect to modestly reduce our store count in the next fiscal year as the Company looks to drive increased profitability under the Acceleration Program and shift our focus with greater emphasis on digital channels.
Internet — We view our digital platforms as instruments to deliver Kate Spade brand products to customers directly with the benefit of added accessibility as consumers can purchase Kate Spade brand products wherever they choose. Consumers also have the ability to place e-commerce orders through point-of-sale mobile devices located within our retail stores. Our digital channel provides a showcase environment where consumers can browse through a selected offering of the latest styles and colors.
Wholesale — As of June 27, 2020, Kate Spade brand's products are sold in approximately 1,000 wholesale and distributor locations, primarily in the U.S, Canada and Europe. The most significant wholesale partnerships primarily include sales of kate spade new york products. Kate Spade products are also available on these customers' websites. The wholesale business for Kate Spade brand comprised approximately 12% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2020. Kate Spade has developed relationships with a select group of distributors who sell Kate Spade products through travel retail locations and in certain international countries where Kate Spade does not have directly operated retail locations. As of June 27, 2020 and June 29, 2019, Kate Spade did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Stuart Weitzman
Stuart Weitzman is a leading footwear brand that is synonymous with strength in femininity. Defined by an energetic, bold and purpose-driven attitude, Stuart Weitzman is known for its unique approach to melding fashion, function and fit in every silhouette. The brand's focus on creating effortless shoes - each engineered to empower women with both confidence and comfort - has resonated around the world and continues to inspire women to conquer every day, one step at a time.
Stores — Stuart Weitzman products are primarily sold in freestanding flagship, retail and outlet stores. Stuart Weitzman flagship locations, which offer the fullest expression of the brand, are located in key strategic markets including tourist-heavy, densely populated cities globally. Retail stores carry an assortment of products depending on their size, location and customer preferences. Through outlet stores, we target value-oriented customers in established outlet centers that are close to major markets.
The following table shows the number of Stuart Weitzman directly-operated locations and their total and average square footage:
| Stuart Weitzman | |||||||||
| North America | International**(1)** | Total | |||||||
| Store Count | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 58 | 73 | 131 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (13 | ) | (3 | ) | (16 | ) | |||
| % change vs. prior year | (18.3 | )% | (3.9 | )% | (10.9 | )% | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 71 | 76 | 147 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | 3 | 41 | 44 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | 4.4 | % | 117.1 | % | 42.7 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 68 | 35 | 103 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (1 | ) | 23 | 22 | |||||
| % change vs. prior year | (1.4 | )% | 191.7 | % | 27.2 | % | |||
| Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 102,784 | 89,182 | 191,966 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (22,552 | ) | (1,118 | ) | (23,670 | ) | |||
| % change vs. prior year | (18.0 | )% | (1.2 | )% | (11.0 | )% | |||
| Fiscal 2019 | 125,336 | 90,300 | 215,636 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | 7,467 | 42,802 | 50,269 | ||||||
| % change vs. prior year | 6.3 | % | 90.1 | % | 30.4 | % | |||
| Fiscal 2018 | 117,869 | 47,498 | 165,367 | ||||||
| Net change vs. prior year | (75 | ) | 28,690 | 28,615 | |||||
| % change vs. prior year | (0.1 | )% | 152.5 | % | 20.9 | % | |||
| Average Square Footage | |||||||||
| Fiscal 2020 | 1,772 | 1,222 | 1,465 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2019 | 1,765 | 1,188 | 1,467 | ||||||
| Fiscal 2018 | 1,733 | 1,357 | 1,606 |
| (1) | Fiscal 2019 includes the addition of 18 stores acquired as a result of the distributor acquisitions in Southern China and Australia during fiscal 2019. Fiscal 2018 includes the addition of 20 stores acquired as a result of the Stuart Weitzman distributor acquisition in Northern China during fiscal 2018. |
In fiscal 2021, we expect a reduction in store count and square footage globally as we exit certain locations and regions to increase profitability under the Acceleration Program.
Internet — We view our digital platform as an instrument to deliver Stuart Weitzman brand products to customers directly with the benefit of added accessibility as consumers can purchase Stuart Weitzman brand products wherever they choose. The website also acts as a communications vehicle to build brand awareness. Our digital channel provides a showcase environment where consumers can browse through a selected offering of the latest styles and colors.
Wholesale — Stuart Weitzman brand products are primarily sold through approximately 900 wholesale and distributor locations globally, which include multi-brand boutiques as of fiscal 2020. The wholesale business for Stuart Weitzman brand comprised approximately 27% of total segment net sales for fiscal 2020. Stuart Weitzman has developed relationships with a select group of distributors who sell Stuart Weitzman products through travel retail locations and in certain international countries where Stuart Weitzman does not have directly operated retail locations. As of June 27, 2020 and June 29, 2019, Stuart Weitzman did not have any customers who individually accounted for more than 10% of the segment's total net sales.
Refer to Note 18, "Segment Information," for further information about the Company's segments.
LICENSING
Our brands take an active role in the design process and control the marketing and distribution of products in our worldwide licensing relationships. Licensing revenue for the Company was $46.7 million and $53.3 million in fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, respectively. Our key licensing relationships and their calendar year expirations as of June 27, 2020 are as follows:
| Brand | Category | Partner | Expiration | |||
| Coach | Eyewear | Luxottica | 2021 | |||
| Coach | Tech Accessories | Incipio | 2023 | |||
| Coach | Watches | Movado | 2025 | |||
| Coach | Fragrance | Interparfums | 2026 | |||
| Kate Spade | Tableware | Lenox | 2020 | |||
| Kate Spade | Tech Accessories | Incipio | 2021 | |||
| Kate Spade | Fashion Bedding | HTA | 2021 | |||
| Kate Spade | Watches | Fossil | 2025 | |||
| Kate Spade | Eyewear | Safilo | 2026 | |||
| Kate Spade | Stationery and Gift | Lifeguard Press | 2026 |
Products made under license are, in most cases, sold through stores and wholesale channels and, with the Company's approval, the licensees have the right to distribute products selectively through other venues, which provide additional, yet controlled, exposure of our brands. Our licensing partners generally pay royalties on their net sales of our branded products. Such royalties currently comprise approximately 1% of Tapestry's total net sales. The licensing agreements generally give our brands the right to terminate the license if specified sales targets are not achieved.
PRODUCTS
The following table shows net sales for each of our product categories by segment:
| Fiscal Year Ended | ||||||||||||||||||||
| June 27, 2020 | June 29, 2019 | June 30, 2018(1) | ||||||||||||||||||
| (millions) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Amount | % of total net sales | Amount | % of total net sales | Amount | % of total net sales | |||||||||||||||
| Coach | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Handbags | $ | 1,852.0 | 37 | % | $ | 2,261.3 | 38 | % | $ | 2,298.2 | 39 | % | ||||||||
| Men's | 688.0 | 14 | 862.0 | 14 | 844.6 | 14 | ||||||||||||||
| Women's Accessories | 645.4 | 13 | 766.5 | 13 | 747.1 | 13 | ||||||||||||||
| Other Products | 340.3 | 7 | 381.1 | 6 | 331.6 | 6 | ||||||||||||||
| Total Coach | $ | 3,525.7 | 71 | % | $ | 4,270.9 | 71 | % | $ | 4,221.5 | 72 | % | ||||||||
| Kate Spade | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Women's Handbags | $ | 648.9 | 13 | % | $ | 763.7 | 13 | % | $ | 703.4 | 12 | % | ||||||||
| Other Products | 260.0 | 5 | 315.2 | 5 | 311.6 | 5 | ||||||||||||||
| Women's Accessories | 240.6 | 5 | 287.9 | 5 | 269.7 | 5 | ||||||||||||||
| Total Kate Spade | $ | 1,149.5 | 23 | % | $ | 1,366.8 | 23 | % | $ | 1,284.7 | 22 | % | ||||||||
| Stuart Weitzman(2) | $ | 286.2 | 6 | % | $ | 389.4 | 6 | % | $ | 373.8 | 6 | % | ||||||||
| Total Net sales | $ | 4,961.4 | 100 | % | $ | 6,027.1 | 100 | % | $ | 5,880.0 | 100 | % |
| (1) | The Company completed its acquisition of Kate Spade and Company in fiscal 2018. The operating results of the Kate Spade brand have been consolidated in the Company's operating results commencing on July 11, 2017. |
| (2) | The significant majority of sales for Stuart Weitzman is attributable to women's footwear. |
Women’s Handbags — Women’s handbag collections feature classically inspired designs as well as fashion designs. These collections are designed to meet the fashion and functional requirements of our broad and diverse consumer base.
Women’s Accessories — Women’s accessories include small leather goods, which complement our handbags, including wallets, money pieces, wristlets and cosmetic cases. Also included in this category are novelty accessories (including address books, time management accessories, travel accessories, sketchbooks and portfolios), key rings and charms.
Men’s — Men’s includes bag collections (including business cases, computer bags, messenger-style bags, backpacks and totes), small leather goods (including wallets, card cases, travel organizers and belts), footwear, watches, sunglasses, novelty accessories and ready-to-wear.
Other Products — These products primarily include women's footwear, eyewear (such as sunglasses), jewelry (including bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings), fragrances, watches, certain women's seasonal lifestyle apparel collections, including outerwear, ready-to-wear and cold weather accessories, such as gloves, scarves and hats. In addition, Kate Spade brand kids ready-to-wear and footwear items, housewares and home accessories, such as fashion bedding and tableware, and stationery and gifts are included in this category.
DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING
Our creative leaders are responsible for conceptualizing and implementing the design direction for our brands across the consumer touchpoints of product, stores and marketing. At Tapestry, each brand has a dedicated design and merchandising team; this ensures that Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman speak to their customers with a voice and positioning unique to their brand. Designers have access to the brands' extensive archives of product designs, which are a valuable resource for new product concepts. Our designers are also supported by strong merchandising teams that analyze sales, market trends and consumer preferences to identify market opportunities that help guide each season's design process and create a globally relevant product assortment. Merchandisers also manage the product life cycle to maximize sales and profitability across all channels. The product category teams, each comprised of design, merchandising, product development and sourcing specialists help each brand execute design concepts that are consistent with the brand's strategic direction.
Our design and merchandising teams also work in close collaboration with all of our licensing partners to ensure that the licensed products are conceptualized and designed to address the intended market opportunity and convey the distinctive perspective and lifestyle associated with our brands.
MARKETING
We use a 360-degree approach to marketing for each of our brands, synchronizing our efforts across all channels to ensure consistency at every touchpoint. Our global marketing strategy is to deliver a consistent, relevant and multi-layered message every time the consumer comes in contact with our brands through our communications and visual merchandising. Each brand's distinctive positioning is communicated by our creative marketing, visual merchandising and public relations teams, as well as outside creative agencies. We also have a sophisticated consumer and market research capability, which helps us assess consumer attitudes and trends.
We engage in several consumer communication initiatives globally, including direct marketing activities at a national, regional and local level. Total expenses attributable to the Company's marketing-related activities in fiscal 2020 were $238.0 million, or approximately 5% of net sales, compared to $247.1 million in fiscal 2019, or approximately 4% of net sales.
Our wide range of marketing activities include direct mail tiered to our database of best, new, lapsed and prospective customers. In addition, to drive engagement and build awareness, we utilize a variety of media, including print, digital, social and out-of-home. Our respective brand websites serve as effective communication vehicles by providing an immersive brand experience, showcasing the fullest expression across all product categories.
As part of our direct marketing strategy, we use databases of consumers to generate personalized communications. Email contacts and direct mail pieces are an important part of our communication and are sent to selected consumers to stimulate consumer purchases and build brand awareness. Visitors to our e-commerce sites provide an opportunity to increase the size of these databases, as well as point of transactions globally, except where restricted. For Coach, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S., Canada, Japan, mainland China, several throughout Europe, Australia and South Korea. For Kate Spade, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S., Canada, mainland China, Japan and throughout Europe. For Stuart Weitzman, we have e-commerce sites in the U.S, Canada, Europe, and mainland China. The Company also leverages Tmall as an additional platform to sell our products to customers.
In fiscal 2020, Coach had informational websites in Hong Kong SAR, China, Korea, Malaysia, Singapore and Taiwan, China, as well as a global informational website where other customers are directed. In fiscal 2020, Kate Spade had an informational website in mainland China. The Company utilizes and continues to explore digital technologies such as social media websites, including Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, WeChat and Sina Weibo, as a cost effective consumer communication opportunity to increase on-line and store sales, acquire new customers and build brand awareness.
MANUFACTURING
Tapestry carefully balances its commitments to a limited number of “better brand” partners that have demonstrated integrity, quality and reliable delivery. The Company continues to evaluate new manufacturing sources and geographies to deliver the finest quality products at the best cost and to mitigate the impact of manufacturing in inflationary markets.
Before partnering with a new vendor, the Company evaluates each facility by conducting a quality and business practice standards audit. Periodic evaluations of existing, previously approved facilities are conducted on a recurring basis. We believe that our manufacturing partners are in material compliance with the Company’s integrity standards.
These independent manufacturers each or in aggregate support a broad mix of product types, materials and a seasonal influx of new, fashion-oriented styles, which allows us to meet shifts in marketplace demand and changes in consumer preferences.
Our raw material suppliers, independent manufacturers and licensing partners must achieve and maintain high quality standards, which are an integral part of our brands' identity. One of our keys to success lies in the rigorous selection of raw materials. We have longstanding relationships with purveyors of fine leathers and hardware. Although our products are manufactured by independent manufacturers, we maintain a strong level of oversight in the selection of the raw materials that are used in all of our products. Compliance with quality control standards is monitored through on-site quality inspections at independent manufacturing facilities.
We maintain strong oversight of the supply chain process for each of our brands from design through manufacture. We are able to do this by maintaining sourcing management offices in Vietnam, mainland China, the Philippines, Cambodia and Spain that work closely with our independent manufacturers. This broad-based, global manufacturing strategy is designed to optimize the mix of cost, lead times and construction capabilities.
During fiscal 2020, manufacturers of Coach products were primarily located in Vietnam, Cambodia, the Philippines and mainland China. During fiscal 2020, Coach did not have any vendors who individually provided approximately 10% of the brand's total purchases. During fiscal 2020, Kate Spade products were manufactured primarily in Vietnam, mainland China and Cambodia. Kate Spade had two vendors, one located in Vietnam and one located in Cambodia, who individually provided over 10% of the
brand's total purchases (or approximately 35% in the aggregate). The Company expects that the level of products manufactured in each country will change during fiscal 2021 as it continues to further diversify the brand’s supply chain globally. Stuart Weitzman products were primarily manufactured in Spain. During fiscal 2020, Stuart Weitzman had two vendors, one located in Spain and one located in mainland China, who individually provided over 10% of the brand's total units (or approximately 20% in the aggregate).
DISTRIBUTION
Each brand's products are shipped from manufacturers to distribution centers around the world for inspection, storage, order processing and shipment. These facilities use bar code scanning warehouse management systems. Our distribution center employees use handheld scanners to read product bar codes, which allow accurate storage and order processing, and generally provide excellent service to our customers. Each brand's products are primarily shipped to the retail stores and wholesale customers. Some facilities also ship direct to consumer orders in markets where we have an e-commerce presence.
North America product fulfillment for Coach is facilitated at our U.S. distribution center by our automated warehouse management system and electronic data interchange system, while the unique requirements of the direct to consumer business are supported by Coach's order management and e-commerce sites. Outside of North America, the Company has established regional distribution centers through third-parties for each brand. For Coach products, these centers are located in the Netherlands, Japan, Greater China (mainland China, Hong Kong SAR, Macao SAR and Taiwan), South Korea, Malaysia, Australia and Singapore to support directly operated local markets.
The Company distributes Kate Spade products through facilities that are operated by third parties in the United States, Europe and Asia. For Kate Spade, product fulfillment in North America is facilitated by our automated warehouse management system and electronic data interchange system, while the unique requirements of the direct to consumer business are supported by selective warehouse and distribution systems operated by a third-party. The Company also operates local distribution centers through third-parties in the U.K., Japan, mainland China, Hong Kong SAR, China, Australia, Singapore and Malaysia for Kate Spade product.
The Company distributes Stuart Weitzman products through facilities located in the United States, Canada, Spain, Italy and mainland China that are operated by third parties.
INFORMATION SYSTEMS
In fiscal 2020, the Company completed its multi-year Enterprise Resource Planning ("ERP") implementation. Key milestones were achieved as follows:
| • | Fiscal 2018: Implementation of a global consolidation system which provided a common platform for financial reporting. |
| • | Fiscal 2019: Deployment of global finance and accounting systems for Corporate, Coach and Stuart Weitzman and global finance, accounting, supply chain and human resource information systems for Kate Spade. |
| • | Fiscal 2020: Supply chain functions for Coach and Stuart Weitzman were implemented at the beginning of fiscal 2020. |
The Company is also implementing a point-of-sale system which supports all in-store transactions, distributes management reporting for each store, and collects sales and payroll information on a daily basis. This daily collection of store sales and inventory information results in early identification of business trends and provides a detailed baseline for store inventory replenishment. The implementation is complete for Coach stores in North America and Europe and expected to be implemented for Stuart Weitzman stores in North America in fiscal 2021 and Kate Spade North America in fiscal 2022.
Refer to Item 1A. "Risk Factors," for further information as it relates to the Company's ERP system implementation efforts.
CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY
Tapestry’s corporate responsibility strategy, Our Social Fabric, unites teams across our business to work to meet our 2025 Corporate Responsibility Goals and a shared objective: to create the modern luxury company of the future that balances true fashion authority with meaningful, positive change. The Company is a signatory to the United Nations ("UN") Global Compact, and as such, our corporate responsibility strategy is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Tapestry’s goals cover three strategic pillars: Our People, Our Planet and Our Communities.
| • | Our People: Goals focus on diversity, inclusion, progression and wellness initiatives across our workforce. |
| • | Our Planet: Goals include sourcing and environmental initiatives to increase traceability of our products and reduce our impact. |
| • | Our Communities: Goals include focus on volunteerism programs, philanthropic initiatives and supply chain empowerment programs. |
Additional information on our corporate responsibility strategy and 2025 Corporate Responsibility Goals can be found at www.tapestry.com/responsibility. The content on this website and the content in our Corporate Responsibility Reports are not incorporated by reference into this Annual Report on Form 10-K or in any other report or document we file with the SEC.
TRADEMARKS AND PATENTS
Tapestry owns all of the material trademark rights around the world used in connection with the production, marketing, distribution and sale of all branded products for Coach, Stuart Weitzman and Kate Spade. In addition, it licenses trademarks and copyrights used in connection with the production, marketing and distribution of certain categories of goods and limited edition collaborative special projects. Tapestry also owns and maintains registrations in countries around the world for trademarks in relevant classes of products. Major trademarks include TAPESTRY, COACH, STUART WEITZMAN, KATE SPADE and kate spade new york. It also owns brand-specific trademarks such as COACH and Horse & Carriage Design, COACH and Story Patch Design, COACH and Lozenge Design, COACH and Tag Design, Signature C Design, COACH EST. 1941 and Design for the COACH brand; kate spade new york and Spade Design, live colorfully, Walk on Air and In Full Bloom for the kate spade new york brand; and the SW Logo for the Stuart Weitzman brand. Tapestry is not dependent on any one particular trademark or design patent although Tapestry believes that the Coach, Stuart Weitzman and Kate Spade names are important for its business. In addition, Tapestry owns a number of design patents and utility patents for its brands' products. Tapestry aggressively polices its trademarks and trade dress, and pursues infringers both domestically and internationally. It also pursues counterfeiters domestically and internationally through leads generated internally, as well as through its network of investigators, the respective online reporting form for each brand, the Tapestry hotline and business partners around the world.
The Company expects that its material trademarks will remain in full force and effect for as long as we continue to use and renew them.
SEASONALITY
The Company's results are typically affected by seasonal trends. During the first fiscal quarter, we build inventory for the winter and holiday season. In the second fiscal quarter, working capital requirements are reduced substantially as we generate higher net sales and operating income, especially during the holiday season.
Fluctuations in net sales, operating income and operating cash flows of the Company in any fiscal quarter may be affected by the timing of wholesale shipments and other events affecting retail sales, including adverse weather conditions or other macroeconomic events, including pandemics such as Covid-19.
GOVERNMENT REGULATION
Most of the Company's imported products are subject to duties, indirect taxes, quotas and non-tariff trade barriers that may limit the quantity of products that we may import into the U.S. and other countries or may impact the cost of such products. The Company is not materially restricted by quotas or other government restrictions in the operation of its business, however customs duties do represent a component of total product cost. To maximize opportunities, the Company operates complex supply chains through foreign trade zones, bonded logistic parks and other strategic initiatives such as free trade agreements. Additionally, the Company operates a direct import business in many countries worldwide. As a result, the Company is subject to stringent government regulations and restrictions with respect to its cross-border activity either by the various customs and border protection agencies or by other government agencies which control the quality and safety of the Company’s products. The Company maintains an internal global trade, customs and product compliance organization to help manage its import/export and regulatory affairs activity.
COMPETITION
The global premium women's and men's handbag, accessories and footwear categories are highly competitive. The Company competes primarily with European and American luxury and accessible luxury brands as well as private label retailers. Over the last several years these industries have grown, encouraging the entry of new competitors as well as increasing the competition from existing competitors. This increased competition drives interest in these brand loyal categories.
EMPLOYEES
As of June 27, 2020, the Company employed approximately 17,300 globally, including both full and part time employees, but excluding seasonal and temporary employees. Of these employees, approximately 9,200 and 4,900 were full time and part time employees, respectively, in the global retail field.
The Company believes that its relations with its employees are good, and has never encountered a strike or work stoppage.
FINANCIAL INFORMATION ABOUT GEOGRAPHIC AREAS
Refer to Note 5, "Revenue," and Note 18, "Segment Information," presented in the Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements for geographic information.
AVAILABLE INFORMATION
Our Annual Reports on Form 10-K, Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, Current Reports on Form 8-K and all amendments to these reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 are available free of charge on our investor website, located at www.tapestry.com/investors under the caption “SEC Filings,” as soon as reasonably practicable after they are filed with or furnished to the Securities and Exchange Commission. These reports are also available on the Securities and Exchange Commission’s website at www.sec.gov. No information contained on any of our websites is intended to be included as part of, or incorporated by reference into, this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
The Company has included the Chief Executive Officer (“CEO”) and Chief Financial Officer certifications regarding its public disclosure required by Section 302 of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act of 2002 as Exhibit 31.1 to this Form 10-K.
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